Jonathan Anderson takes the world by storm with the LOEWE Crafted World exhibition, a celebration of heritage, cultural evolution and the commitment to the handmade.
Fashion conglomerates gathered in Shanghai for a special celebration — LOEWE’s Crafted World. Beyond its 178-year history of innovation and craft, the house’s 19th-century origins were steeped with artistic techniques, cultural nuances, quirks and storied storytelling. The narrative culminated in new beginnings led by Creative Director Jonathan Anderson who in his brilliant mind, brought the Maison and its team to Shanghai (the city he last visited pre-pandemic) for this epic moment.
Designed in collaboration with multi-disciplinary studio OMA, Crafted World unfolds over 1,600 sqm and the courtyard of the Shanghai Exhibition Centre — transforming its avant-garde quasi-ostentatious interiors into an immersive space with many ‘subtle’ surprises.
For children, there’s also a series of knee-high exhibits for the little ones to interact with — including six hidden surprises to be spotted in and around the space. Look for the elephant and the bird while you’re at it. As you check our ‘The Atelier’, look out for the intentional ‘imperfections’ like that one column or a piece of its original bright red terrazzo flooring that’s left unconcealed — revealing parts of the existing building to bring out elements of curiosity and surprise. See if you can also find the tip of the building’s very own grand chandelier here too.
The space brings with it a trajectory through many facets of the ateliers — digital, ceremonial, formal and ironic elements that connect the dots in one huge room. In the words of Jonathan Anderson himself, it is not a ‘stuffy brand’ — and true enough, the exhibit speaks with its very own tunes of joy, celebration and free spirit. There’s a lot to ponder and examine, but more to be excited and happy about.
The Crafted World comprises six thematic chapters, curated around Loewe’s progressive approach to fashion and the culture of craft. Born from the Hand tells the evolution from leather-making to its modern identity today with first editions of the iconic Amazona, Flamenco and Puzzle bags on display. Welcome to Spain transports visitors into an immersive sensory of sights and sounds, set around a digital display of the Mediterranean Sea and the Andalusian palaces. The Atelier takes you behind the scenes while Fashion Without Limits excites with 69 iconic looks from Jonathan Anderson’s runway collection since he started in 2013. United in Craft offers the joy of making things with one’s hands — a tribute to the makers, artisans, weavers, carvers and artists. Lastly, Unexpected Dialogues pulls together nine immersive worlds that have inspired Loewe’s collaborations from the past decade — including a magical Studio Ghibli dreamworld. Be sure to lie on Totora’s belly!
Ahead of the opening night, Lifestyle Asia sat down with Jonathan Anderson for a quick catchup on the Crafted World exhibition in the vibrant city of Shanghai, as well as his favourite piece from the exhibit.
How long has it been in the making for the Crafted World exhibition?
It’s been in the making for about two years — perhaps, a little bit longer with the pandemic. The reason why I wanted to do it was because I wanted to tell a story that I think might have been obvious to me, but might not have been obvious to everyone… putting all of it under one roof.
What was the intent behind his exhibition in Shanghai?
The last trip that I had done was in December 2019 before the pandemic — and it was to Shanghai. It was like the end of the old world and the beginning of a new world. So to me, we have to start it here. I wanted to do it in Shanghai because it was very sentimental for me.. as it was very crucial for us to embark on this journey, right where I last left.
What do you want the audience to take away from the exhibition?
My biggest thing is especially in the making process. Many brands are scared of to show the ‘complete’ make because maybe they are worried about copyrights, or many different things. The reason why I wanted to show it is I think as a society, we have this thing of the ‘ready-made’… when we see it in a store, we do not think of how it was made. And I wanted to be able to show that there’s a huge amount of technology, craft and engineering that goes into making a bag.
And some of the bags have hundreds of components and processes. And I think sometimes I’m like this. We forget about the process. I believe it’s to humanise the process and to realise that yes, machines are involved, but fundamentally it is led by man in order to make something. So you take this very precious material, and it has to be utilised in a respectful way. I hope in this exhibition, people start to see that things take time. It can be fun, but it is a process of engineering ultimately.
What is your favourite item from the Loewe Crafted World?
There is a box with a mouse on top of it, from the archive. It was the first thing in the archive that I really loved when I first joined Loewe. I think it’s quite sentimental and quite meaningful because the box really represents what the brand is about. It’s a leather house, it is about craft but it has humour. I think Loewe has that sense of humour — looking at things in a different way. I think in that little box, you get all of that. And the box is a hundred years old. So it tells you what this house could be.
When I joined, I was like, “This is what it could be”… and I’m only here as a custodian for a certain period of time. And my job is to make Loewe as best as I can do. Not just for me, but for the continuity of the brand.
What is the process of selecting the artists that you want to collaborate with?
I think it’s very instinctive. There’s no rationale to it ultimately. It’s just things that I’m personally into — it might have been a film that I saw, something in the museum or people who have fundamental values that I believe in. It is in the idea of protecting a craft, the idea of nature and the idea of how we look at nature to design. But at the same time, it’s like my collaboration with Richard Hawkins (American contemporary painter) where I loved the idea of how he looks at pop culture… the humour of it. The idea of the irony. So I think it just depends on how I feel or what I find interesting out there. There’s no logic to it, as Loewe has zero logic. (chuckles)
Where would the Crafted World be heading to next?
We will probably be going somewhere next year, to another capital. And then another capital after that. But we’ll be doing an amazing exhibition on lights at Salone del Mobile (Milan), and of course the Craft Prize in between.
Crafted World runs from 22 March to 5 May 2024 before travelling worldwide. The exhibition, housed at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre is open to the public and entrance is free.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Where will the Loewe Crafted World exhibition take place?
The Loewe Crafted World exhibition will be hosted at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre, before making its way across the world.
2. When is the Loewe Crafted World exhibition taking place?
The Loewe Crafted World exhibition is taking place from 22 March to 5 May 2024.
3. Is Loewe a luxury brand?
Yes, Loewe is a luxury brand from Spain that is best recognised by its avant-garde designs and commitment to craftsmanship.
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Written by
Martin Teo
Editor-in-Chief
Martin has a soft spot for art and architecture, fashion and food history. When embracing his spirit-ual side, he finds himself switching between a Negroni and an Old Fashioned, especially after a long week. His day is never complete without time at the gym and three cups of coffee — flat white with oat milk, no less.
