The panther is an integral part of Cartier’s history — and Jeanne Toussaint, whose nickname is ‘La Panthère’ is the icon behind Panthère de Cartier’s legacy.
A creative signature for Cartier, the wild and magnetic panther isn’t one to shy away from taking centre stage. In 1948, Jeanne Toussaint put her eccentric touch; turning the creature into an icon that still inspires three-dimensional designs today. The Panthère de Cartier collection — among the upper echelons of luxury — is a classic display of technical and creative harmony.
This begs the questions: who is Jeanne Toussaint and why is she the figure behind the panther? Born in Belgium in 1887, Jeanne, a daughter of lacemakers, grew up interested in fashion and style. From a young age, she was surrounded by handmade goods and understood their effort and value.
However, it wasn’t until Jeanne was older when she got acquainted with Louis Cartier in Paris. Captivated by her joie de vivre and taste, Louis offered Jeanne a position at the company towards the end of 1913; overseeing accessories at Cartier. Known for her impeccable and fascinating style, Jeanne knew what wealthy heiresses of the 1920s needed — and she accommodated their needs. This included handbags, wallets, and luxurious lipstick tubes.
Timeless, stylish, and functional. Her initial creations led Jeanne to make history in 1933 as the first woman in the jewellery industry to be appointed Director of Fine Jewellery at Cartier. With such an important role at the French Maison, her name is eternally solidified in the history of the company.
Nicknamed ‘La Panthère’ herself, it is exactly the same wildcat that Jeanne featured on 1914’s Cartier Panthère wristwatch. Then, it was something completely new and the piece — adorned with diamonds and onyx — started a fresh legacy from 1922 that would continue until present time. Ah, the Roaring Twenties.
In 1948, the Dutchess of Windsor, Wallace Simpson commissioned the first La Panthère jewel. Made by the team of Toussaint and designer Pierre Lemarchand, the panther brooch set, gold and enamel with an emerald cabochon, became one of the most notable accessories of the 20th century soon after. Everyone wanted La Panthère jewellery, especially from the elite. The following year, the panther appeared on a sapphire cabochon. The rest is, of course, history.
Jeanne lent what’s called the ‘Toussaint taste’ to all her designs for Cartier until retirement in 1970. Her mystic yet mesmerising status left a permanent mark in Cartier. Inspired by India, Persia, and China, Jeanne’s visionary take on style was the epitome of bold; putting emeralds with corals and vibrant coloured stones with yellow gold.
Freedom, power, and defiance. These are traits synonymous with the Panthère. From the very beginning, the constantly reinvented Panthère has been a fruitful and powerful muse for watches, jewellery, fine leather goods, accessories, and fragrances. It’s an entity of creative vitality as seen through three very crucial interpretations: naturalist, sculptural, and graphic.
The indomitable icon is a celebration of sensuality, duality, mystic, versatility, and elegance. The Panthère also celebrates gem-setters, designers, polishers, jewellery-makers, and more. Over the years, notable designs featuring the courageous animal include the Panthère Clip Brooch for the Duchess of Windsor, the Panthère Flaneuese Necklace introduced in 2017, and the first ever Panthére de Cartier quartz watch released in 1983.
Today, the Panthère is a visual icon — an unforgettable figure in the history of high jewellery. Imbued with movement, the panther’s jewels assert themselves through fluidity of lines and a sculptural approach that result in creation of volume. In addition, it’s easy to spot a stylised interpretation of nature with Cartier’s balanced use of colours and jewels (diamonds or onyx).
From that, the Panthère motif has transformed into a signature that’s both original and elegant. The powerful pieces created and designed by Cartier today are all inspired by the graphic and geometric treatment of the panther’s coat (or fur); breathing life and spirit to the prized objects. After all, the Cartier savoir-faire is a bridge between craftsmanship, technique, and style.
The Panthère de Cartier collection, always refreshed and rejuvenated, has been a favourite for many from the 20th century — elevating looks for the likes of personalities such as Maria Felix, Monica Bellucci, Annabelle Wallis, Karen Mok, María Félix, Chang Chen, and Blackpink’s Jisoo. Favoured by everyone, the collection now comprises everything from exquisite rings, decadent bracelets, luxurious necklaces, show-stopping watches, exceptional earrings, and classic handbags.
Jeanne Toussaint’s trademark panther now curls, pounces, and swings with majestic movement in the Panthère de Cartier collection. With each passing decade — achieving immortality for the ages.
Learn more about La Panthère at the exclusive ‘Into the Wild’ experience happening from 4th to 18th September 2022. Click HERE to find out more.
(All images from Cartier)
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Written by
Ronn Tan
Senior Writer, Fashion & Dining
After graduating with a Masters in Fashion Journalism from Instituto Marangoni London, Ronn took on a role as Lifestyle Writer. Now on a more project-centric position with Lifestyle Asia, he actively writes about drinks, fashion, and everything cool. When he's not typing on the laptop or managing a shoot, you will find him visiting the newest restaurants or sipping on a Negroni.
