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Review: Sage Restaurant makes a great comeback

Sage Restaurant and Wine Bar has been a go-to to many who have frequented The Gardens Mall since its opening. Post-renovation, Sage leaves a resounding impression with a new atmosphere and an exciting menu led by Head Chef Don John.

Sage was not how it was the last time I left the place. I remembered it to be flooded in natural lighting with a commanding sea-green teal palette and glass features.

Walking in, it felt like a whole new space. Sage fans out a stunning interior in antique mint green and warm natural hues. While the main dining hall that fits up to 80 guests maintains an open concept, there are also private dining rooms for diners who want a more intimate experience. There are three private rooms that can house 10, 15 and 20 diners.

Before heading in, take a little stop at the bar for an aperitif while perusing an extensive wine list the restaurant has to offer. To say the least, Sage remains an IYKYK sort of place.

Located on Level 6 of The Gardens Mall, Sage provides a cosy and inviting atmosphere for every occasion. The interiors are inspired by French gardens, with tactile surfaces and leitmotifs that brings you back to a Claude Monet’s artistic expressions.

At the heart of its culinary journey is Head Chef Don John who brings his training from classical French cuisine out to play here. His unique cooking ethos, paired with local produce and styles, brings forth a new experience for Sage.

Is the menu at Sage the same?

Yes and no. Sage remains consistent with its offering of bread. Break into the almost-perfect, freshly baked bread that’s crusty on the outside and fluffy on the inside. It is the perfect vessel to soak in its signature pesto dip. It’s deliciously addictive, so go easy on the bread.

The experience continues with a decadent slurp of French Aikka Caviar with a shot of vodka. While the caviar offers a defined and powerful taste, the vodka brings brightness and balance — leaving an impressive length in the mouth.

But the true test lies in the first set of appetisers featuring beef and octopus.

Like a work of art, bold and vibrant colours stand out. The Kobe Carpaccio with Seasonal Truffle dish comes with truffle slices, croutons, micro greens, edible flowers and small dollops of bearnaise. Bright pink and glistening, the beef slices are as fresh as they should — echoing the chef’s vision to bring only the freshest and best to the table. The dish is an absolute pleasure. A harmony of flavours dances in the palate with a sliver of intensity at the end thanks to the black truffle — summer’s favourite ingredient.

Equally vibrant is the Smoked Octopus Carpaccio with Brandy Aioli and Caviar — its verdant brightness from the parsley oil adds an instant appeal to the dish. Digging in, it is the most decadent treat; the octopus is cooked to perfection, tender and full of character. The creamy brandy aioli lends an extra depth to the mix, now already brimming with a melange of delicious flavours.

Main Courses

A forkful of the Shio Koji Aged Cod Fish with Spiced Cauliflower Puree leaves me elated. The hint of curried sweetness paired with perfectly roasted cauliflower offers an absolute delight to the mildly spiced dish — almost a hug for the soul. The fish is firm, leaving a delicate mouthfeel in every bite.

Chef Don John continues to impress with the next offering; a chicken dish that’s perfumed in earthiness of truffle and mushrooms. There’s a sense of comfort in this balanced creation, juxtaposing the tender meat with the crunch from the deep-fried oyster mushroom. That’s what the Roasted Free Range Chicken with Cep Cream and Truffle leaves — a lasting impression.

The palate, still dancing from the melange of flavours, gets a quick respite with a delightfully bright and citrusy lemon granita with raspberries.

Grilled Wagyu with Black Garlic and Torched Chitose Corn (Photo: Lifestyle Asia KL)

Two sips of water later, the server walks over with the Grilled Wagyu with Black Garlic and Torched Chitose Corn. Lovely seared on the exterior and pink in the centre, the wagyu beef is the star of the menu. Served with charred corn for sweetness and a touch of yuzu kyushu for heat and tanginess, the main dish is beautifully balanced and celebratory with every bite.

At the verge of palate fatigue, with every dish carrying such distinct and robust flavour profiles, my attention is quickly whisked to desserts. The Signature Souffle, light and pillowy, brings a sense of relief to the heavyweights. Wash it all down with the Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream with Ardoino Olive Oil — there’s no nonsense to this dish, simple classic creation that’s worth every calorie if I may.

Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream with Ardoino Olive Oil (Photo: Lifestyle Asia KL)

Verdict

If you’ve not been back to Sage for a while, it will definitely surprise you at the very least. Chef Don John has enough in his arsenal to leave you in trance with fantastic flavours through his creations of incredibly considered recipes that work for the Malaysian palate. Through his travels and experience, he has been able to translate them onto the plate — giving each dish a sense of narrative that’s very much inspired and informed.

It is not just a place for dinner, there’s also a business lunch menu at RM198 nett if you’re feeling a tad bit fancy sans the crowd — especially during peak hours.

Find out more HERE.

Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.

Written by

Review: Sage Restaurant makes a great comeback

Martin Teo

Editor-in-Chief

Martin has a soft spot for art and architecture, fashion and food history. When embracing his spirit-ual side, he finds himself switching between a Negroni and an Old Fashioned, especially after a long week. His day is never complete without time at the gym and three cups of coffee — flat white with oat milk, no less.

 
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