ATAS resets with new European bistro concept and here’s what to try

Here’s a little review of ATAS — officially re-launching with a new identity this June at The RuMa Hotel and Residences.

For many years since its inception, The RuMa Hotel and Residences‘ ATAS has been renowned for its exciting and unique take on modern Malaysian cuisine. Previously helmed by Executive Chefs Tyson Gee and Mandy Goh, the restaurant champions the use of locally sourced ingredients and sustainable cooking — served in the form of elevated culinary offerings. Now, the establishment is about embark on a whole new chapter.

Together with new Executive Chef Suhalmi Tasir, ATAS  will be evolving both in flavour and in identity. With the menu curated by Chef Suhalmi comprising creations that carry forward the restaurant’s longstanding DNA while forging freshly concocted codes. With more than 23 years in the industry (and part of The RuMa Hotel and Residences’ pre-opening culinary team), the maestro behind the kitchen is here to spearhead the story.

ATAS alludes to a more communal concept with both à la carte and set menus to choose from. Still embodying ATAS’ mission on sustainability, many of the dishes here are crafted using fresh ingredients found throughout Malaysia. Think greens from Cameron Highlands and ducks from Penang. The restaurant aims to be its diners’ home away from home, serving comforting meals with a proudly Malaysian spirit. We had the opportunity to try Chef Suhalmi’s signatures and these are some of the must-haves when you’re there.

5 Dishes to try at ATAS:

European Prawn Croquette (RM35)

Our meal began with the beautifully plated Prawn Croquette for appetiser. Using prawns sourced from Pulau Ketam, Chef Suhalmi prepares the dish by breading and deep frying the prawns before placing them on a French toast base. Served with Crustacean aioli, expect a mix of tang from the accompanying sauce and crispiness from the croquette. The prawn itself lends a lush and sweet bite that really helps whet the appetite — preparing your tastebuds for more. The addition of the French toast provides layers and textures for an amplified multi-dimensional mouthfeel. It’s also an easy dish to share and while you know what to expect from a prawn croquette, it still feels like a mini gastronomy adventure.

Bresaola Tortellini Salad (RM48)

For the love of mushrooms and cheese! The Bresaola Tortellini Salad is as straightforward as it gets — made with mushroom confit, arugula and pecorino. Created to taste like carpaccio, there’s a fresh zing to the dish that’s both light and refreshing. The restaurant selects its portobello mushrooms and rockets from Cameron Highlands; pairing these Malaysian ingredients with the savoury cured meat imported from Italy. Tasting this dish is like walking amongst a flower garden but one with a hidden treasure. Why, you asked? There’s a surprise within the Bresaola that awaits your arrival. One thing’s for sure: you can definitely look forward to a rich (and creamy) fusion of flavours.

Pasta Tower (RM58)

The Pasta Tower dish begins with a spectacle so prepare to get your phones out if you are one to record your memories. As the chef lifted up the mould, we witnessed a quick yet alluring display of pasta “falling” into place. Quite literally. Cheese also features heavily in this concoction in the form of mozzarella and béchamel alongside lasagna-like layers and accompanied by an Angus beef ragout. From the get-go, this feels like something that’s perfect for families with children too — for both the entertainment and familiarity aspects. Furthermore, the use of Angus beef adds a juicy and tender touch to the ragout which further heightens the overall experience. You get the aromatic Béchamel, the delightful umami from the meat stew and the flat sheets to truly bring the elements together.

Roasted Duck Breast (RM108)

One of our favourites at the restaurant is the Roasted Duck Breast. Chef Suhalmi and his team use duck sourced from Penang (sometimes from Bidor, Pahang) which they then dry age for 10 to 12 days. As a result, you get a denser meat and nutty notes. Here, the dish is served with melon mango compote, pomegranate sauce and wild rice on a bed of Tuscan kale. The acidic sweetness of the pomegranate sauce seems to blend pretty well with the delectable intensity of the meat. The winning point has to be the crispy duck skin which adds depth and it’s even more toothsome when paired with the wild rice.

Lemon Meringue (RM30)

Currently on the new menu, there are four desserts to pick from — including a Banana Cake with Chocolate Cremeux as well as the Dauphinoise Apple Tart with Vanilla Anglaise. The Lemon Meringue dessert, on the other hand, stands out for its use of keluak chocolate alongside lemon cremeux and yoghurt. The culinary team at the eatery makes the chocolate with beans from Pahang and enhances its flavours with the earthy attributes of keluak. The cold yoghurt at the centre provides the invigorating zest while the lemon cremeux brings with it a tad of citrusy notes. Undoubtedly, it’s a creative take on lemon meringue and in a way, an excellent method of alluding to the restaurant’s history of delivering local Malaysian touches to its creations.

Learn more about ATAS HERE.