Review: Chocha refreshes its menu with a Borneo-inspired sensibility

Seven years after its inception, Chocha Foodstore continues to champion the communal dining experience in KL with an East Malaysian bent to its menu.

Walking into Chocha feels like entering a time tunnel. Step into ‘Mah Lian Hotel’ and the doors bring forth a rough-and-ready aura that’s both immersive and transportive. If you’ve not been back to Chocha, the restaurant has gone through rounds of transformations. And there are also significant changes to the menu as well. 

Since its opening in 2016, Chocha has always been focusing on modern Malaysian cuisine while celebrating local ingredients through and through. Throughout the menu, there is a significant amount of local produce and ingredients from small-batch producers and organic or biodynamic farms being fronted prominently. In the kitchen, the team constantly strives to reinterpret local flavours in a modern and novel way — exactly what they have since day one. 

Of course, there’s a new menu on the table. But in celebration of its 7th anniversary, Chocha has also brought back some of the all-time favourites including the Ulam Raja Creme Brûlée and the C.F.C. Cencalok Fried Chicken. 

At the heart of the kitchen is Chef Nazri who has been with the restaurant since its early days. Born and raised in Lahad Datu, the former fisherman now heads the kitchen at Chocha, bringing with him a breadth of Borneo-focused cooking ethos that inspires the menu you see today at the restaurant. His cooking style stems from his memories of his hometown as well as flavours that are familiar to his childhood. 

Before we head up to BOTAKLIQUOR for drinks, we sit down downstairs as the sun sets to experience the new dishes in Chocha’s refreshed menu. Here’s what we think.

Meatless Options

Vegans rejoice! If you’re looking for an alternative to meat, the Banana Blossom is definitely a great option to indulge in. Pickled and then deep-fried in tempura batter, Chocha demonstrates a clear understanding on texture and flavour — presenting the banana heart or locally known as ‘jantung pisang’ in its purest form, whole. 

However, it is served with a shrimp paste tomato sambal — so be sure to check on dietary restrictions before you eat!

Another dish that truly stands out — especially for vegans — is the Slow-cooked Eggplant. Tender and silky smooth, the eggplant is given the ultimate respect through and through. Slow grilled over charcoal for about 20 minutes, the natural flavours of the eggplant come through with a tinge of smokiness. What I personally love is the play on textures from the crispy roasted lentils sprinkled on top of the creamy sambal belado. 

With the former two celebrating the produce through and through, the next dish is a beautiful conglomerate of veggies coming together. Sample the Ulam Lemang, perfectly cooked glutinous rice wrapped in sweet potato leaves. 

The first bite gives off an explosion of flavours, leaving a lingering zingy and umami aftertaste — it is comforting and appetising, to say the least. Fluffy glutinous rice is paired with chopped kailan stems, zucchini, carrots and culantro (for some freshness). In one bite, is harmonious and considered. The charred sweet potato wrapper adds an extra punch, with a bright Bambangan wild mango and cencalok sauce on the side — don’t be surprised to find yourself wiping the plate clean!

Oceanic Flavours

With Borneo at its core, Chocha makes it clear with its seafood sourced from the waters of Sabah. One of the most experiential dishes would probably be the Ambuyat. 

For the uninitiated, ambuyat is a local speciality in Sabah, Sarawak and also Labuan. It has a starchy texture, made of sago. Typically, you’d have to roll the starch around the prongs and dip it in speciality sauces. For Chocha’s version, it comes with three iterations — burnt, poached and pan-seared. 

The ‘burnt’ version comes with fermented tapioca leaves and a very pungent tempoyak (fermented durian). Tempoyak may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but for some, it is an enjoyably acquired taste. The ‘pan-seared’ version is appetising — tangy at first bite thanks to the addition of ‘tuhau’, a quintessentially Sabahan pickled ginger root. There’s also latok (or sea grapes) added to this morsel, adding texture and crunch. 

My favourite is the ‘poached’ version that comes in a turmeric fish broth and a piece of cured snapper on top. Fresh and appetising, this particular ‘ambuyat’ is perfect with a glass of white wine to complement the ‘meatiness’ of the dish. We’d recommend a light and refreshing French wine, the Gros Manseng Sauvignon 2021. 

Speaking of ‘meatiness’, the Stingray on Toast is definitely a surprise element on the menu. Chef Nazri makes a serunding out of the stingray meat — creating a very fulfilling meaty texture packed with beautiful umami flavours, much like eating anchovies. The sweetness of the sautéed onions comes through, playing a part as both the binding element and textural component for the dish. 

The Kudat Octopus is another highlight. This is a Borneo-inspired chawanmushi nobody asked for but it’s delicious. The briny notes from the octopus — sourced from Sabah — seep into the egg custard, leaving a beautiful umami undertones to the steamed custard. Topped with a melange of herbs, papaya flowers (also known as kepayas) and slices of octopus, it is truly an art on a plate. The attention to detail is obvious here, allowing diners to enjoy every mouthful with an excellent balance of flavours. 

And if you’re looking for something more filling, order the Nasi Ulam Udang Salai. Using Beras Salleh grown by the Lun Balang farmers in Sarawak, the fluffy rice is drizzled with fermented coconut oil to give an extra touch of nuttiness. The texture becomes firmer thanks to the coconut oil too. A bouquet of mixed herbs, kale, and okra comes together with grilled confit blossoms and smoked prawns; beautifully flavoured with pickled tuhau and budu for the right amount of umami. However, tuhau on its own can be slightly strong for the palate — take a small amount to start before going for a full scoop. 

Sweet Verdict

The final dish is the Bahulu Tiramisu which celebrates the flavours of gula apong, a type of palm-derived sugar native to Sarawak. Do not attempt to eat the dish separately — every component makes sense when (and only) eaten together. The burnt sabayon is really nice and nutty, soaking the bitterness of the coffee that’s beautifully balanced with the sweetness of gula apong. 

This is not your regular dessert — the Bahulu Tiramisu is definitely made for those who aren’t a sweet tooth but would love a sweet ending to a great meal. It is nostalgic and imaginative with a dark finish — like what a tiramisu would offer, but better. 

Reinterpreting local flavours is definitely at the forefront of Chocha’s culinary ethos. But like many “modern Malaysian” offerings out there, not many are able to do it right — let alone be innovative and creative with local ingredients and produce. 

Imaginative and unique, the experience of coming back to Chocha has been nothing but refreshing. Chocha has been able to maintain its integrity while offering something new for patrons to look forward to.

Next up, it’s time to head up to BOTAKLIQUOR.