Review: Monroe captivates both palate and heart with elevated modern American fare

A tassel of cultures and flavours come together to form the menu at Monroe, KLoe Hotel — culminating in dishes like Xinjiang Braised Lamb to Potato Gnocchi.

It’s no secret that Kuala Lumpur is blessed. Enthroned with an abundance of top-notch eateries, each unique and brilliant in their own ways. The Michelin Guide‘s debut in Malaysia in December 2022 (which covers both KL and Penang) signals to that very fact — that there’s a rising culinary scene eager to be discovered and experienced.

There’s just so much to choose from, from modern Malaysian concoctions and traditional local fare to well-crafted menus featuring flavours from a myriad of different cultures. Truly, there’s something for everyone. The same can be said about Monroe, the shining star of this conversation. Since its inception, Monroe (located within KLoe Hotel in Bukit Bintang) has swiftly amassed quite a following for itself; and we can understand why.

Fun fact: Monroe is helmed by Kindness of Strangers, the team behind LOKLCoffee Co and High Street Studios. The hospitality company also runs KLoe Hotel.

Easily identified by its neon purple sign visible from the street, Monroe takes massive pride in its casual modern American menu. The restaurant, which takes inspiration from the cafes and diners in Los Angeles and New York City respectively, is designed by Wynk Collaborative from Singapore. The sleek interior is composed of walls with eggshell-like tiles, floors fitted with geometric mosaic, and an open concept — with views of the hotel’s pool on one side and the busy Bukit Bintang street on the other.

What’s on offer, you asked? Monroe’s menu currently consists of an eclectic combination of gastronomy styles, ranging from the likes of Potato Gnocchi and Xinjiang Braised Lamb to Hot Fried Chicken and Spicy Tuna Ssam. The Lifestyle Asia KL team had the opportunity to check out Monroe and here’s our humble review.

Thoughts, thoughts, thoughts

Prawn Toast

Prawns on toast? It’s the best of both worlds. The Prawn Toast was an interesting dish to kick off our journey due to its well-balanced flavours and richness with every bite. Infused with kaffir lime and topped with lime crema, the sauce makes a complimenting element with the prawns. The texture is great, too – crunchy on the outside but soft and springy on the inside. (Amalina Anuar)

Spring Rolls

Spring rolls come in an array of variations, depending on cultures and cooking styles. Well, Monroe’s Spring Rolls — fried to crispy perfection — comprises wagyu salt beef and sauerkraut. For many, these ingredients might seem like they lack chemistry on the field but it only takes a munch to prove that idea wrong. Savoury and ambrosial, the dish is an ideal gateway to the restaurant’s culinary philosophy. If this is only the beginning, I’m definitely looking forward to the rest. (Ronn Tan)

Spicy Tuna Ssam

A crowd-pleaser, to say the least, the Spicy Tuna Ssam is absolutely made for sharing. It is quite a peculiar pairing of raw tuna tartare (with Monroe’s unique spin of course) with nori and betel leaves. It is like eating mieng kam, where you have to wrap your own little parcel before stuffing yourself silly with this addictive dish. Generously marinated and flavoured, the delicately chopped raw tuna comes with a beautifully balanced dressing — equal parts acidity, spiciness and savoury undertones. Together with the leafy wrappers, it is a heavenly morsel thanks to the punch of umami from the seaweed and the freshness from the betel leaf. Perhaps a little more coriander would be good but maybe it’s just me, #TeamCoriander. (Martin Teo)

Pro tip: Ask the kitchen for extra betel leaf and nori wrappers because there’s tuna in abundance. 

Kale Chopped Salad

Kale has always my among my favourite greens — something that started during my university days in London. So, I’m always extra excited whenever I see a kale dish on any menu. Perfect as an appetiser, Monroe’s Kale Chopped Salad comes with Momotaro tomatoes and Japanese cucumbers. Refreshing and multi-dimensional, the salad is the epitome of a palate opener; like a catalyst that keeps you wanting more. You also get an inviting tangy sweetness from the tomatoes. It’s simple but prepared so well. I’d return to Monroe just to get crunching on this dish. (Ronn Tan)

Charred Kailan

Here I go writing on three green-hued dishes that one might think I’m in love with the Hulk or Shrek. Truth is, I do love vegetables. After all, they form a large portion of my daily meals. Monroe’s Charred Kailan is prepared with green chilli romesco and calamansi vinegar as well as parmesan for garnish. First and foremost, its beauty is undeniable — simple and unpretentious. Like the kale salad (also in this review), this is a really simple dish that’s carefully curated to impress the pickiest of palates. Similar to most of Monroe’s dishes, the texture is prioritised. The green chilli romesco brings a little heat whereas the calamansi vinegar adds a citrusy dimension. Every bite is as thrilling as the next. Oh, and the answer is yes, I do love Shrek and the Hulk. (Ronn Tan)

Potato Gnocchi

Wait, am I raving over a carb-centric dish? Guess I am! No, it’s not that I have a disdain towards carbs but I just don’t consume them as often. However, Monroe’s Potato Gnocchi is truly a sight to behold — and to devour. Don’t let its appearance fool you, though. The green comes from seaweed butter; the sauce that the restaurant has concocted to accompany its homemade gnocchi. Visualise in your mind (and your tastebuds too) the combination of umami from the seaweed butter with the chewiness of the pasta. The addition of sesame provides a tinge of layers alongside a mild nuttiness. There’s really nothing quite like it and I’m glad to have had the delicious experience. (Ronn Tan)

Hot Fried Chicken

A classic Southern dish to follow? Yes, please! Monroe’s take on an American South icon is just as juicy and succulent as you would expect from very decently-sized pieces of chicken (thighs and a drumstick). The spice kicks in as soon as you take your first bite, taking you by (pleasant) surprise, and I can assure you that the crunch is of the satisfying kind. If you’re worried it might be too hot for you to handle, don’t fret — the ultra-soft milk bread acts as a palate pleaser, and its accompanying ranch sauce and pickles give this spicy meal the perfect cool balance. (Puteri Yasmin Suraya)

Grilled Rump of Beef

Whenever a good steak is around, there’s really no reason to go out starting beefs with anyone. Let the meat do all the talking, of course. When I first had a look at the menu at Monroe, this is one of the dishes I anticipated the most. Monroe serves this dish with picanha — prepared medium — and garnishes the steak with marmite butter. For the uninitiated, the picanha’s juiciness comes from its fat cap; adding to its tender mouthfeel when cooked. Although I feel like the cut would be adequately toothsome with a tinge of salt alone, the addition of marmite butter really helps up the ante on the overall flavour profile. It’s rich, a tad saccharine, and divine. It’s a well-executed balancing act, starring quality ingredients. (Ronn Tan)

Xinjiang Braised Lamb

In this dish, you get the most tender braised lamb leg that’s beautifully seasoned thanks to its cooking process. Slow-cooked in an aromatic master stock, each mouthful is an explosion of flavours ready to astonish your palate. While it may look one-dimensional (some greens would add to its appeal), the flavours make up for what it lacks aesthetically. Melt in your mouth, the meat is absolutely stunning especially when eaten together with the chopped salsa and its rich sauce. The meat is also not gamey but poses a harmonious blend of earthy and savoury notes with a whole lot of cumin to spice things up. (Martin Teo)

PB&J Mille Crepe

What can go wrong with PB&J? If you love peanut butter, this mille crepe cake is definitely calling for your name. This decadent layered treat was a perfect way to end our night – not too sweet too. Soft and tender with every heavenly bite, the mouth-watering cake is smooth, creamy and definitely heartwarming. As you take a bite, be sure to dip your spoon into the blueberry jam and vanilla ice cream served on the side. Combine these elements together, and we can guarantee that you’ll be wanting more. (Amalina Anuar)

Strawberry Shortcake

Strawberries might not be everybody’s thing but I’ve always enjoyed the sweet treats. Not only are they delicious, but they are also rather beautiful. Don’t you agree? The Strawberry Shortcake is one of three dessert options on Monroe’s dinner menu and wow, am I glad that it’s there. Already a sight to behold with its mix of bright red and creamy white, the dessert comes topped with coconut sago for that extra boost of flavours. The cake is light and palatable; without feeling too heavy — especially after such a satisfying meal. (Ronn Tan)

Perfect for all kinds of occasions, Monroe is a great spot to go to when you’re in need of some comfort food. Its menu captivates both heart and palate with riveting flavour combinations and carefully curated taste profiles. Alongside a welcoming atmosphere and Instagrammable space, it goes without saying that the restaurant knows what it takes to keep diners wanting more. If you’re looking for a meal that wows the senses, you know where to go.

Learn more about Monroe HERE.