Véronique Nichanian blends the brand’s equestrian heritage with coastal flair this season for Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection.
There’s been a lot going on in France lately and as anyone living here can attest, not a single day has gone by where there isn’t some sort of political palace intrigue, traffic-stopping protest or a chest-thumping announcement by the Olympics committee hogging the news.
In fact, on 23rd June, just a day after the Hermès menswear show, Parisians were threatening to poop en masse into the Seine to protest the Olympic costs at the same time that President Macron is slated to swim in it to prove how the funds have been used to clean up the river.
Obviously it was a joke but that sort of noise makes one crave for silence, for contemplation — and ironically, we found that in Hermès’ Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Now, a fashion show is hardly what one would call quiet. The music is louder than the outfits of fashion gazelles prancing around Paris for OOTDs, but creative director Véronique Nichanian has a way of weaving threads that speak volumes by whispering.
This season, the French equestrian brand heads to the seas in a collection redolent of the gentle seaside. Key here is not in relying on marine tropes. No, there are no marinières or references to the sunny southern seas but we are instead treated with soft billowy fabrics, calming pastel hues of lilac and baby blue and the occasional exposed tattoo. Nichanian’s re-imagination of seaside outfits into relaxed, elegant pieces are worthy additions to every summer wardrobe.
These are masterfully applied on a collection of sleeveless knits, button down shirts and the occasional t-shirt bearing the print of horses — a reminder of the Maison’s equestrian roots. Trousers are cut purposefully wide and pleated, held up by woven belts, as are billowy boxy shorts that TikTok dubs “dad shorts”. Caps are cut tight, rimless and worn slanted.
Unlike this year’s collection, we’re seeing fewer sneakers down the runway but leather sandals are de rigueur. That makes sense — for who indeed would be tromping around the beach in sneakers? Many of these sandals are an extension of the Hermès’ preference of thick straps but chunky soles this time, are non-existent. Instead, Nichanian presents slimmer, elegant lace ups, some of which are fastened with a sleek Palladium buckle around the ankle.
But not all of the collection had skin and summer all over it. There are zipped up blousons that come in heavy, structured boxy silhouettes, as well as buttoned numbers inscribed with floral patterns. Scene stealers might find the shimmering outerwear appealing — these are reminiscent of light bouncing a body of water and so light weight, they could flap in the sea breeze.
The clear crowd favourite though, has to be the range of bags that are as generous in range as in size. The maison’s classic Haut à Courroies bag makes multiple appearances in toile, the shade of a deep royal blue while the leather version is crafted out of a classic burgundy hue. Minimalists can swoon over a new carrier similarly inspired by Haut à Courroies but with fewer details — it abandons the traditional hardware-heavy turn-lock closure, opting instead for Pontet hardware in its flap-over design.
Overall, Hermès’ Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 collection offers a serene and sophisticated escape. Nichanian’s designs blend the brand’s equestrian heritage with a coastal flair. Given the noisy state of affairs in the country right now, a seaside escape is in order. Perhaps the French Riviera, perhaps the coasts of Sicily. But either way, a brand new set of elegant leather sandals wouldn’t hurt.
