Sabyasachi on the art of maximalism and his new high jewellery collection

As Sabyasachi debuts his latest collection of High Jewellery at Bergdorf Goodman, the iconic NY City retailer, we talk to the designer about the intricacies of his craft and the hidden gems from the collection.

The Sabyasachi x Bergdorf Goodman jewellery collection is glamorous and extravagant, just the way he likes it. Loaded with flora and fauna themes, multi-coloured gemstones, tropical insignia and deconstructed classical elements, the collection is full of bold and vivid statement-making pieces. “I’ve been thinking about exoticism — India and the Moulin Rouge, French and Bengal savoir-faire. Marrying the classic with the outrageous, from sombre evening pieces to head-turning statement jewellery. Conjuring tigers, elephants, palms, berries and botanicals — crafted in spectacular gemstones. The precise geometry of watchmaking and the graphic strength of Byzantine mosaics, the symmetry of Mughal gardens were challenged by the asymmetry of modern punk and the confidence of Bengali craftsmanship. This is a kaleidoscopic collection with an unexpected whimsy,” shared the designer when asked about the inspiration for his latest collaboration with Bergdorf Goodman which is currently on display at the Jewellery Salon at 754 Fifth Avenue in New York City.

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The collection cites menswear tailoring for women as one of its biggest influences, a feat that can be seen in the shoot by Tarun Vishwa that juxtaposes Sabayasachi’s bejewelled pieces with silhouettes like trench coats, shackets and stiff collared shirts. He also references, the glistening paintings of Austrian artist, Gustav Klimt with long, linear, gilded and deco elements as the moodboard behind many of his pieces. Amongst them is The Byzantine Cravate necklace which is designed like a “classic tie but a mosaic of schizophrenic gemstones and lavish fringe,” pipes in the designer. “It’s my most eclectic piece yet, but it carries with it the language of jewellery I’ve been creating for a while now. We’ve used a range of artisanal Bengali and Hyderabadi gemstone setting techniques and the back is a combination of Bengal filigree work with engraved tropical insignia in pave set brilliant cut diamonds.”

The notion of ‘India Exotic’ isn’t a new one, it has constantly appeared on the vision boards of some of the world’s greatest designers but what’s unique here isn’t just mere lip service or romanticism of its past but the ability to use that to create rich and exquisite designs from it. The Sabyasachi x Bergdorf Goodman jewellery highlights the heritage Indian jewellery-making techniques while updating it with design, perspective and a vision for tomorrow.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee on…

… the role of nostalgia in his work

“I’ve often said I see myself as a ferryman between the past and the future. I see it less as nostalgia and more as there being a historical context to my work. India is such a reservoir of history, art and culture — but I do believe that for heritage to be relevant it needs to be dynamic. As a designer, I have the privilege to conserve, edit and tweak what I have known into a living legacy. The history of artisanal craft be it jewellery, textiles, embroideries, etc. is deeply intertwined with the history of India—it goes back to antiquity. Isn’t all design, storytelling at its core?

… his unexpected sources of inspiration

I don’t think of anything as unexpected, I’ve always been a bit of a cultural magpie. I think we all are today. It’s impossible not to be given our exposure, our travels and our experiences. Be it iconic artists such as Madonna, Frida Kahlo or Amrita Sher Gil; or historic periods of incredible jewellery craftsmanship from Byzantine to the Mughals of India and Art Deco; or the bazaars and souks of Marrakesh, Kashgar and Calcutta — I think all design is a sort of distillation of various influences. While there remains a unique design proposition and perspective, there will always be a narrative that goes back through the centuries. For me, the dynamic melding of aesthetics, styles, cultures and histories is at the core of how I imagine, dream and create.

… the hack for being a maximalist

The secret to maximalism is restraint. It’s something I say often, I think with more is more, you always need to know how to balance and edit. It’s an instinctual and visceral feeling of knowing when things look just right.

… the ultimate Sabyasachi woman

She’s someone who doesn’t get swayed by market trends. She is insistent on her beliefs and choices. She would buy jewellery as art or investment, but it will always be consumption first. She wears wearable, versatile, beautiful modern heirlooms—mixing the everyday with couture.

All Images: Courtesy Sabyasachi.