The sprawling city of Istanbul, Türkiye through the eyes of a single millennial woman

Last month, we took a trip to the historical and culture-rich city of Istanbul, Türkiye. Here are our thoughts! 

To speak of Istanbul as if it were some obscure place would be an insult to its reputation. The city has many claims to fame, from its fantastic history (where the Roman Empire and later, Ottoman Empire ruled for centuries) to its fusion of cultures (Istanbul sits comfortably on the Bosphorus, straddling eastern Europe and western Asia). A week before I was to set off for Istanbul, I did my research and learned two crucial things: a late August summer promised weather just like home; and good walking shoes were to fall under my ‘essentials’ packing list.

I was also pleasantly surprised to discover that Turkish toilets are fixed with bidet nozzles, and that virtually all restaurants serve halal food. (In hindsight, the latter should’ve been pretty obvious given that 99% of Türkiye’s population is Muslim.) Despite this, Roman architecture outstrips that of the Islamic; in fact, Istanbul was once upon a time called ‘Second Rome’. And so, a suitcase and a carry-on later, I was ready to channel my inner Lizzie McGuire and embark on a glorious European summer. (A little tip: most of Türkiye deals in euro and Turkish lira for currency, though the latter is more widely recognised — especially if you choose to explore other cities beyond Istanbul.)

What to keep in mind when travelling to Türkiye

Rule number one: invest in a good neck pillow. A direct flight to Istanbul, Türkiye is about ten hours long, so you’ll definitely want to keep comfortable. I was quite fortunate to board the Turkish Airlines (I’d heard enough raving reviews to feel, weirdly, excited for a ten-hour flight). And what I’d heard — that flying economy with Turkish Airlines gets you business class services including hot meals, amenity kits and lots of good legroom — is not only true. It also far surpassed my expectations.

I often don’t tend to fall asleep easily on flights — mostly due to discomfort. But after scrolling through the infotainment system and squeezing in a film from its very extensive library (Baz Luhrmann’s Elvis, to let two and a half hours breeze by) I settled into my seat and proceeded to sleep soundly for the next five hours, waking up after dawn — in time for breakfast. And when it comes to food, Turkish Airlines certainly delivers with style. We bade adieu to Malaysia with a delicious departing dish of nasi lemak and chicken rendang. (And on the way home, a week later, we enjoyed an equally tasty serving of köfte meatballs.)

A city of spectacular sights and sounds — and spellbinding streets

Despite being well-aware of the weather, absolutely nothing prepared me for how breathtaking the views of Istanbul would be. I had seen the pictures of course (Google Images doesn’t do the real thing justice!) but to witness the city of Istanbul, in the height of summer, with its bright and vivid colours, is something else entirely. I stayed in the Radisson Blu Hotel, Istanbul Pera (lit. “the other side”). The hotel is only a ten-minute walk from the neighbourhood of Galata — one of Istanbul’s oldest — where the historic Galata Tower stands tall, and the bridge that spans the Golden Horn (the bay of the Bosphorus along its European coast) can be found.

Every morning before our tour day would commence, I took a walk into the neighbourhood, exploring the various shops and sidewalk cafés just to get into the vibe of ‘living like a local’. Being on the European side of Istanbul, the city certainly feels old  — but not in the dusty, grimy way you might expect. Perhaps the best word to describe it is ‘medieval’. You somehow feel transported to another time as you walk up and down the hilly streets.

Venture a little further and you will find İstiklal Street — one of Istanbul’s most famous shopping streets with numerous pubs and restaurants, modern boutiques and art galleries, that could perhaps rival New York’s 5th Avenue. It begins at the northern end of Galata and runs all the way to Taksim Square, a leisure district that opens into ‘modern Istanbul’. İstiklal Street is where the city’s multitude of cultures meet: the streets are flanked by late Ottoman era buildings from the 19th and early 20th centuries, and they come in a variety of styles — including neoclassical with its French and Italian constructions, early Greek designs as well as Art Deco style buildings from the early years of the Turkish Republic, which represent much more modern architecture.

With Taksim Square marking the beginning of modern Istanbul, it also makes way for the thriving art scene in the city. After basking in the stunning architecture all along the streets of Istanbul, it was another visual treat altogether to take in art indoors. The Istanbul Modern, Türkiye’s first-ever museum of modern & contemporary art, houses a massive selection of artistic works including paintings, sculptures, photographs, and interactive multimedia installations. Art aficionados, I urge you to plan your trip accordingly. Many an hour was spent here — and I would have gladly stayed on for much longer. Before departing the district, we also made a quick stop at the Ataturk Cultural Centre — in which all things ‘creative arts’ reside. Everything there is to know about the history of art, music and the performing arts in Türkiye can be discovered here, and within its uniquely designed walls is the AKM Library where you can spend yet many more hours sifting through collections of books on the creative arts.

Balat Street, a little out of the way past the banks of the Golden Horn, is a true hidden gem of Istanbul. Where the coastal road is a pleasant modern promenade, once you stumble onto Balat Street, it’s an entirely new neighbourhood to explore. Balat stands out with its colourful buildings, lined up along sloping cobbled streets. It’s a lot to take in for a district full of antiques and traditional Turkish treats — and the deeper you wander, the steeper the roads get. So, be sure to wear firm, comfortable shoes!

Where history and tradition converge, and modern minds refine

As a Malay-Muslim, I have to say that there was quite a bit of a culture shock to be had as I roamed around Türkiye. Today, more than 99% of the population in Istanbul, Türkiye is Muslim, and the cuisines (unless specified) are halal-certified — but it is, ultimately, a secular state. What this means is that its culture and society put its people’s nationalism over their beliefs. You will, at some point, come across fully-covered hijabi Turkish women smoking freely on the streets. And these very same women will also not hesitate to feed stray dogs that may be passing by.

Churches and cathedrals are sprinkled between the many mosques across the country. Even the Hagia Sophia Mosque, an outstanding structure in the Islamic world since the late 20th century, still retains elements of Christianity from when it was once the grand cathedral of Constantinople in the 6th century — which includes artworks of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary and more. It is quite an enlightening experience on the whole, and an understanding that this world is much bigger than we think. It certainly lives up to its name, as Hagia Sophia (pronounced “Ayasofya”) translates to “light of wisdom”. I admit I was overcome with emotion upon entering. The mosque is truly magnificent, and upon witnessing the many different religious elements carved on the walls right in front of me, I understand what it means when it is said that mosques stand as a symbol of unity.

The Blue Mosque stands directly across the Hagia Sophia, and is also a marvel to behold. It is best known for its six minarets, which, at the time of its erection, was rather controversial as only the Grand Mosque in Mecca had that many minarets at the time. Inside, the walls are adorned with handmade İznik tiles (blue of course, hence its name), floral and geometric designs with painstaking attention to detail. Outside, there is an extensive courtyard where visitors are free to lounge about, and where many stray dogs are found scuttering by.

Another historic gem is the Basilica Cistern — though not quite as ‘hidden’, seeing as it has been the location for many action films, the one I clearly remember being Ron Howard’s Inferno. This iconic landmark, once upon a time a water storage system used to supply water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and other nearby areas, is now a tourist site and even art exhibit, and is held up by 336 marble columns. Two specific columns stand out among the rest (do keep a lookout for them!) and that’s because their bases are each carved with the head of Medusa.

If you’re looking for a really memorable shopping experience, the Grand Bazaar is of course a must-visit when in Istanbul. Its interior is reminiscent of our own Central Market on Petaling Street, except perhaps ten times bigger. The untrained eye may be fooled by the products — it may be difficult to differentiate between the genuine, Turkish-made and the counterfeit — and so here, we present a list of handcrafted goods for when you want to take home a souvenir. The most cherished art of Turks, from what I’ve observed, are scarves (textiles and fabrics), tiles and ceramics, carpets, and calligraphy.

For scarves of any kind, Ottomano is the way to go. As a proclaimed specialist in cashmere shawls and Ottoman’s Art (by both customers and international celebrities alike!), here you can find scarves and textiles made from various fabrics and ranging from different prices. Tiles will charm their way to you at Firca Ceramic, where some of the world’s finest handmade quartz and ceramics are housed. No two pieces are the same, and if you are in for a treat, you can even see some stunning glow-in-the-dark ceramic pieces!

Walking into Punto Carpets was like stepping into an old atelier, with a spiralling staircase that is covered to the brim with the most beautiful rugs and carpets. These are each very intricately handwoven, and even if you don’t intend to purchase, you simply must stop by just to admire the artistic handiwork that goes into every piece. And lastly, Nick’s Calligraphy is the place to go for fine art and scriptures. Dubbed the ‘Lord of the Leaves’, this atelier-turned-boutique is run by Nick Merdeyen himself, who paints traditional symbols, verses and elements from many different religions — and he paints them on dried leaves. The result is a stunning piece of artwork that you can take home to cherish.

Eats and traditional Turkish treats

There’s a lot that can be said, and perhaps has been said, about Turkish cuisine. And from what I gather, after spending a week indulging in all kinds of delicious meals — Turkish food is a beautiful amalgamation of various European and Asian tastes. There is a touch of Mediterranean, Balkan, Middle Eastern, Central Asian and Eastern European in its many dishes. Even since the Ottoman Empire, food has always been exquisite, because the Ottoman court and its finer people would infuse many different spices and flavours, which was then carried down to the current age.

As we traversed from one restaurant to another across Istanbul, Türkiye, I would describe most of the meals I had as feel-good comfort food — but in no way unhealthy. Olive oil, bread, fruits and honey are the essentials of a Turkish meal. Our very first lunch stop, Deraliye, already offered me perhaps the best meal I enjoyed throughout the trip: mutancana, a warm and hearty stew made with lamb, honey, vegetables sautéed in butter, and dried figs and peaches. This sumptuous meal, I later learned, was once served to the sultans at the Ottoman palaces.

Baklavas are simply a must-try when in Türkiye. Though a little too sweet for me to take any more than two at a time, they’re quite the staple of the country’s cuisine. Do make sure to drop by Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Istanbul for the full baklava experience. What was once a family business during the Ottoman Empire grew into perhaps one of the biggest baklava producers of the country.

So… final verdict?

I would, without a doubt, return to Istanbul, Türkiye for another trip, this time to fully immerse myself in all of the places and experiences. The city is simply perfect for the female solo traveller. There was not a single moment where I didn’t feel safe, and its people are very friendly. It’s such an enchanting gem of a city that truly caters to every type of traveller: whether you dabble in art, history, architecture, or if you just enjoy a fun and exciting lifestyle while you soak in a beautiful view of the whole of Istanbul.

Istanbul’s nightlife comes alive at sundown, and the coast is practically sparkling. I highly recommend ending your day with a rooftop dinner at least once on your trip, as it is worthwhile in a city like Istanbul.

Turkish Airlines flies directly from Kuala Lumpur to Istanbul 14 times a week. The flight time is approximately 10 hours. Enjoy all the historical sites and authentic Turkish cuisine as well as transportation with Touristanbul under Turkish Airlines HERE. For more information about all things Türkiye, visit the official TGA website or follow TGA on Instagram HERE.